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Home > Blog > Plexus Story #2 : second part Travels in Japan

Story #2 : more shops ! Record digging adventures in Tokyo

Another Plexus Story* with the second part of Guillaume's first trip to Japan.

Published on May 25, 2023
By Plexus

Photo of a street in Tokyo

* What are these Plexus Stories ?
Have a coffee, spin a record, sit back and enjoy this article : Plexus shares his memories, anecdotes and record store secrets...

In the previous episode...

It's 2015 and I'm arriving in Japan for the first time. Both amazed and baffled after visiting a few record shops in Shibuya and Shinjuku, I begin to understand that the rest of the trip will be great. On my agenda : a tour of the city punctuated by visits to various shops, following an equally exalted Jérôme...

Read Story #1 >

Getting lost in Tokyo is a never-ending game

Discovering the residential districts by foot, stumbling across restaurants that are forgotten by the tourist guides, being attracted in shops and lost in this maze made of buildings...

Trying to figure out which floor or basement a mysterious sign on the edge of a small dead-end street corresponds to, walking through the business districts without understanding which activity takes place there...

Photo of a street in Tokyo

Strolling through an abandoned "pocket park", being accosted by touts in the red light districts, being tempted by the light of a snack-bar open at night.

The experience is both enriching and disappointing... richness of a culture and a society that never stops, faced with the disappointment of a journey with a programmed finitude.

Illustration

I fully trust Jérôme for the choice of the shops to discover. I was having only a very limited access to Internet in the lobby of our hotel, and no smartphone, no GPS... just my maps and some guides to find my way.

At that time I was groping around a bit blindly. And the pleasure was all the more intense.

An imaginary digging map

Each stop at a record shop is like a milestone, or rather a predefined goal to set markers on the gigantic map of Tokyo. As the days go by and I learn the name of various subway stations, as well as the  neighbourhoods through these dig sessions.

Koenji, Ikebukuro, Takadanobaba, Ochanomizu, Mitaka, Nakano, Jimbocho, Shimokitazawa… Each station, each neighbourhood will always be associated with a specific record shop, with unforgettable finds and hours and hours of thorough research.

An imaginary map of the city emerges in my head, to quote Julien Gracq, evoked by Manuel Tardits in the magnificent book "Tokyo, Portraits & Fictions".

Book cover

Tokyo, portraits et fictions
Manuel Tardits
Éditions du Lézard Noir >

Tokyo,
Eldorado for vinyl diggers?

When the immensity of the city may seem to be an obstacle to those who wish to find some rarities, it seems to me, on the contrary, that the whole thing makes it possible.

The social, structural and economic strict organisation of Tokyo allows us to acquire an ease and an unequalled efficiency (for those who wish, in a short time, to have access to a maximum number of places).

Photo

The perfection of the transport networks, the natural fluidity of the crowd movements, the universal accessibility, the rigour of the timetables, the respect of each others...

To be a tourist in Tokyo in these early 2010s years, and particularly for a tourist who is passionate about records, is to enter this perfectly orchestrated routine, admittedly somewhat impersonal, but where the individual has access to the best services and infrastructures imaginable.

Searching most of the rarest records in the world with these conditions is a kind of chance and a dream that soon became reality.

After a few days of intense peregrinations in the city and its surroundings, the conclusion is clear... the suitcases are already full to bursting, the hotel room is a mess, piles of records are in every corner. We'll have to find a best way to organize, and above all : come back as soon as possible.

Illustration

But Jerome continues to guide us through this protean city.
I discover totally unlikely shops, in the most forgotten corners of Tokyo, outside the tourist circuits and the crowds.

Speaking of atypical shops...

Illustration

Lost in a dead end of Nishiogikubo, Jerome takes us to a tiny shop. I'm not very motivated : yet another timeless shop, which certainly hasn't renewed its stock for many months, and whose records must be covered in dust...

WRONG !

After a few minutes of rummaging through the first two bins, I quickly put aside my preconceived notion : I'll have to suffer for a few hours in this 20m2 space (where it's barely possible to take more than two steps without bumping into a box of records).

The little grandpa behind the counter didn't even try to nod to us in greeting. He's busy sleeving a few records and slowly labelling his small new arrivals. Two large walls of records, arranged vertically, tightly packed, wait patiently for us to get to work.

The deeper I get into this innumerable quantity of records, the more I understand that this seemingly anecdotal neighbourhood shop is in fact a real monster : it will become an unmissable regular visit in the coming years.

The selection is more than solid, the condition superb, and there are some great finds hidden in the depths of these forgotten crates. But it's hard to believe in the promises of the shop's name, Fun Records : as the minutes and hours of digging go by, the old man starts to huff and puff, to sigh... And the more my pile of finds increases, the more he sighs, as if he no longer has the courage to sell his records.

Jerome explains to me that the man always behaves in this way : this boss's mood is somewhat surprising and I end up believing that we are really bothering him and that he would prefer us to leave. Before closing time, I approach the cashier counter and signal that I want to pay. He sighs again and starts counting, shows me the final ticket and points to a discount line, even though I didn't ask for it.

I pay him, and this time he lets out a discreet smile and quietly returns to his duties before closing up.

Strange encounter with this old man, his impractical shop and his incredible records... this choreography will always be the same, for years: my piles of records increasing, his sighs more and more insistent, but always the same final result and pleasure.

Until one day, without much surprise, we noticed that the shop was closing its doors... like many local shops at the end of their life.

Another atypical shop : Gojuppo Hyappo

Another shop, another mystery with this place that we ended up nicknaming Oh Yeah! in Koenji. Here again, it was thanks to Jerome's intuition that we were able to discover this shop...

Nestled on the 2nd floor of a small, invisible building, it is reached by a staircase with minimalist decoration. The door is wide open, and you have to pull aside the curtain that hides the interior to enter...

Illustration

Nothing to do with Fun Records:
the vibe is totally different...

Not much bigger, but the shop breathes with accessible and modernly arranged bins, customised thematic sections, labels with extensive commentary... and this time, a smiling boss behind the counter!

Illustration

Jérôme had become friendly with the owner, and they always exchanged with a certain complicity, despite the language barrier. A trust was establishedbetwenn Mister Oh Yeah (because he always finished his sentences like that) and us : he was used to keep some records aside for Jérôme, knowing his tastes as he bought them.

After a few trips and visits to his shop, he even ended up recommending records to me : he kept them preciously behind his counter, awaiting my next visit.

Illustration

He introduced us to Japanese jazz and city-pop favourites - long before the hype hit these references - which he played with great care on his Denon turntable with its dusty edges, equipped with a tired DL103 cell, with its shrill highs, but still as charming.

The atmosphere was the opposite of the cold, impersonal feel of most Tokyo shops. It was one of the few record shops with whom we had managed to have any kind of dialogue. Here again, I didn't have enough time to really realize how lucky I was, because this warm atmosphere and these precious exchanges are not common in Japan.

A few years later, when we had started to notice that our friend didn't really seem like himself anymore, Jerome found the shop empty and its doors closed. All this complicity stopped overnight...

Several months after this event, he met Mister Oh Yeah in random streets of Tokyo. The erratic and not very coherent speech coming of our friend did not allow Jérôme to really exchange with him nor to know the reason of his closing.

Sadly, we have never seen him since, and will probably never know what happened to him.

The discovery of these two atypical record shops, from my first trip, gave me the trigger and the passion for these small forgotten shops, rich in discoveries, with all different atmospheres, sometimes freak-out, but always as endearing as each other...

Read the next part

Episode 3 >

THAT'S ALL FOR NOW ! 
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