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For this first episode of Plexus Stories*, Guillaume shares the story of his very first trip to Japan.
Published on May 13, 2023
by Plexus
* What are these Plexus Stories?
Have a coffee, spin a record, sit back and enjoy this article : Plexus shares his memories, anecdotes and record store secrets...
It's February 2015, and the global vinyl market has been revived for some time. The pressing factories are running at full speed, and a whole new generation of record shops are opening up independently, in France and all over the world.
2015 is a milestone year : the new releases market is growing and a whole economy is taking off. New releases are almost all in vinyl format, and reissues of "classics" - whether by the majors or independent labels - are taking up a huge share of production. Prices are already starting to skyrocket and record shop margins are getting smaller and smaller.
As for second-hand records, good collections are becoming rarer, and efforts must be redoubled to succeed in offering original and quality selections. The record shop business is becoming increasingly complex and highly competitive.
Vinyl in Japan, a cultural exception?
In the midst of this revival, Japan - and more particularly Tokyo- appears as a temple out of time. From our European point of view, the Japanese market seems to have never experienced a crisis, and the wealth and profusion of their cultural treasures seem to be limitless. Tokyo would be this ideal, this fantasy of the perfect city. The rarest records, as well as the most sought-after classics, would all be concentrated in this oversized megalopolis.
The development of social networks and the Internet has democratised this opinion and reinforced Japan as the surreal image of a vinyl record "capital".
Of course, many record shops have already scoured the multitude of Japanese stores since the early 1980s, but in 2015 Tokyo still remains a unique absolute in the world in the collective unconscious of collectors.
I met Jérôme in the early 2010s, when we ran into each other at record fairs and markets in the French backcountry.
He was certainly one of the most hardcore diggers of that time... Able to spend a whole day at a convention going through all the bins until the last record with an infinite rigour and patience. This perfectionist and completist spirit allowed Jérôme to discover an incredible number of fantastic records, totally ignored or neglected by collectors.
His Youtube channel "Crème 2 la crème" - set up with his sidekick Raphael Top Secret - was in itself a founding element of a whole new scene of diggers in Europe*.
His curiosity and his life path soon led him to go on an adventure much further than his Chatellerault suburb (medium town in French backcountry), and to end up settling in the heart of the "city of records": Tokyo.
* Library, Cosmic Disco, Balearic, West Indies Funk, Proto Techno, Ethno Folk and many other forgotten genres came back to the fore during this period thanks to many European players. Jerome, however, remained an enigmatic figure in this vibrant scene. He influenced in a more or less direct way a multitude of DJs, producers and collectors (Zaltan, Antal, Tako, Chee Shimizu, Vidal...) while remaining in the shadow. His discoveries and his work as an archivist were enough to create a real myth around his person, and to energize the whole of this new scene.
Sometimes things happen by chance: 6 months earlier, travel advertisements had led me to take a closer look at the fares for travel to Tokyo. Within minutes, my first tickets were booked ! Jérôme, who had already been living in the Japanese capital for some time, obviously offered to be my guide for this first trip... totally improvised.
I arrived in Tokyo in February 2015 and began a great love affair - or rather addiction - betwenn this unique city and me.
Just arrived on Japanese soil...
Jerome joins me and throws me in the middle of Shibuya.
Despite the anaesthesia caused by the fatigue of a totally surreal flight*, the culture shock hits hard : the crowds, the lights, the energy, the rhythm... all these "clichés" take hold of you and don't let you go. Japanese culture has been part of our daily lives for a long time, but the real experience is no less intense and amazing.
* Our Aeroflot flight was supposed to stop over in Moscow. But due to the French-Russian tension and for politico-military reasons, our plane had to make an extra round trip because of a ban on all French people landing on Russian soil. With more than 48 hours of travel, my arrival in Tokyo was not without pain and fatigue.
Without having eaten a single local snack, we went to the first record shop that came along: Face Records*, at the time almost unknown to the foreign public and full of bargains in city-pop, rare groove and Japanese jazz.
I had no idea what to expect from the rest of the trip, but I already knew that something unreal was happening here.
*Face Records is certainly the only independent shop in Tokyo to have really communicated internationally. They quickly adapted to the foreign market and succeeded in making available, either through their website or their communication on the social medias, a selection of exotic and unique records from our "gaijin" point of view. They perfectly anticipated the growing success of the Japanese vinyl market, which allowed them to open other shops later on: General Records, Face Miyashita, Face NYC...)
After spending a few minutes in this first shop and buying 2-3 Japanese Hip-Hop EPs among the few references I knew at the time (Muro, Krush, Nujabes), we went out to visit other independant shops.
First we go to the legendary Next (no real interest here), then we go to a completely different vibe...
A small shop specialised in second hand records, totally freaky, installed on the upper floor, overflowing with piles of records piled horizontally, deformed by years of abuse and humidity.
It's impossible to get out the slightest find because this organised mess seems insufferable.
The fatigue of this first interminable flight starts to take the upper hand, it's time to go back to Azabu-Juban, the residence of my first trips...
A well-deserved sleep break
Settled in a midclass hotel off the beaten track, the disorientation continues at full speed: on the wise advice of Stéphane from the Lézard Noir (French publishing house), I had booked a room in a small building usually reserved for Japanese visitors.
Not a word of English at the reception, a traditional service, a timeless decoration, common baths in the basement... in short, a small paradise disconnected from the tourist reality of Tokyo.
The next day, we plan a little more the continuation of my stay: we have hardly 10 short days left to discover this megalopolis and its surroundings. I already know that I won't be able to do everything we'd planned. Direction Shinjuku, and first stop in a Disk Union basement specialized in Japanese music*: a small corner frequented by Jerome for a few years already.
Here I am, just arrived in this small and cramped 20m2...
and I find myself totally lost!
Because yes, at that time, not a single effort was made by the Disk Union staff for foreigners: dividers entirely in Japanese, unusual titles and classifications, no dialogue possible with the salesmen... And above all: my knowledge of Japanese music was very poor.
* Disk Union, founded in 1969, is Japan's largest music shop chain with more than 40 shops.
Each major station in Tokyo has its own Disk Union department, often with specific themes for each shop, which makes it easy to target the genres sought after. The turnover and richness of the catalogue in the most important of these departments is certainly unique in the world.
In short, I had almost everything to learn.
Yellow Magic Orchestra, Yuji Ohno, Tasturo Yamashita... and not much else was able to attract my attention in this flying saucer-like shop. I must admit that at that time, the explosion of the Japanese scene had not yet taken place.
To give a simple reference: I remember very well when I came back to France struggling to sell a copy of Mariya Takeuchi's Variety for more than 25€, so I was very hesitant to buy it for more than 500yen during my first trips (and I must admit that it was impossible at that time to buy this record for more than 500-800yen, just like Tatsuro's For You...). Fortunately, lost in this temple of city-pop, Jérôme gave me some references he already knew on his fingertips: horror movie OSTs, obscure Japanese jazz, Tokyo cosmic disco, minimalist ambient with new-age accents...
A few hours later, we head for another DiskUnion basement located in the same area, but specialised in Rare-groove. We don't breathe any more in this second basement with artificial lights. But it only takes one tank to reassure me and take a second, much heavier slap...
All these fantasized references of spiritual jazz, deep soul, jazz-funk, psych' rock, New York disco : It's all there !
On the wall, Syl Johnson, Weldon Irvine, the Mighty Ryeders, ESG, James Mason, Terry Callier, Dorothy Ashby, Shamek Farrah, David Axelrod, and many other rarities totally untraceable, in original pressing and exceptional condition. It's hard to imagine so many sought-after items in so little space. Even in my previous trips to New York, San Francisco, Portland, Chicago, I never managed to find an equivalent. The reputation of this DU is well justified, and remains so today, even if it must be admitted that Holy Grails are becoming rarer and rarer there (in proportion to the shops of the common man).
The mini JBL system (we'll take the time to come back in detail on the Japanese fascination for this American brand in an upcoming episode dedicated to Hifi in Japan) plays a looped mix of classic-breaks and gets the adrenaline pumping, the atmosphere is unique and perfect... and makes me forget the fact that I'm digging in one of the biggest record shop chains on the planet.
The whole paradox of Disk Union's success lies in this balance: having the largest and most important stock in the world (in vinyl and -most of all- in cd), while still offering a selected selection of titles that is as specialized as possible.
Admittedly, this huge machinery may seem a bit impersonal (a turn-over of several thousand records per day, huge teams of staff, complete computerisation of the activity) but it alone symbolises the success of the Japanese economic model. It is only with the necessary hindsight of many trips to the record capital that I have really managed to understand how unique this "chain" of shops is, and that it completes a certain form of ideal of the record shop business through its structural and economic perfection. Yes, there is certainly something missing in this business, something more human or more personal, but we can't imagine a more exemplary and grandiose success in our profession.
Je ressors fébrile, des étoiles dans les yeux et le budget é-cla-té.
It's the beginning of the tour of the city punctuated by these stops in the different departments of Disk Union, but also in all the independents who still resist to the frantic rhythm of the turnover of this giant of the music distribution.
I buy the latest edition of the Tokyo record shops guide and start to really understand... it would take more than a lifetime to go through this infinite list.
THAT'S ALL FOR NOW !
DON'T MISS THE REST OF THIS TRIP
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